Mea hoʻomaʻemaʻe

ʻO ka "manaʻo" koʻikoʻi o ka ʻelemakule o ka ʻili ʻo ia ka maloʻo, i hōʻike ʻia e ka haʻahaʻa haʻahaʻa haʻahaʻa a me ka hiki ʻole ke mālama i ka wai. Lilo ka ʻili i ka ʻili, ʻeleʻele a ʻeleʻele. ʻO kahi mea hygroscopic nui no ke kumu o ka hoʻopiha ʻana i ka wai o ka ʻili a me ka pale ʻana i ka maloʻo i kapa ʻia he humectant. ʻO ka mīkini hoʻomaʻemaʻe ʻili, hoʻokahi ka moisture absorption; ʻo ka ʻaoʻao ʻē aʻe ka ʻāpana pale (pale pale) e pale ai i ka hoʻoheheʻe ʻana o ka makū o loko. ʻO ke komo ʻana o ka makū o kēia papa pale ke hana maʻamau ʻo 2.9g/(m2 h-1)±1.9g/(m2 h-1), a i ka nalowale loa ʻana, ʻo 229g/(m2 h-1) ± 81g/(m2 h-1), e hōʻike ana he mea nui ka papa pale.

Wahi a ka moisturizing mechanism, ua hoʻomohala ʻia nā ʻano moisturizer me nā hopena maikaʻi. ʻO nā humectants maʻamau ka polyols, amides, lactic acid a me ka sodium lactate, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, glucolipid, collagen, chitin derivatives a pēlā aku.

(1) Polyols
ʻO Glycerin kahi wai ʻono liʻiliʻi, hiki ke komo i ka wai, methanol, ethanol, n-propanol, isopropanol, n-butanol, isobutanol, sec-butanol, tert-amyl alcohol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol a me Phenol a me nā mea ʻē aʻe. ʻO Glycerin kahi mea hoʻomaʻemaʻe pono ʻole no ka ʻōnaehana emulsification ʻano O/W i nā mea hoʻonaninani. He mea koʻikoʻi nō hoʻi ia no ka lotion. Hiki ke hoʻohana ʻia e like me ka moisturizer no ka pauka i loko o ka pauka, he hopena palupalu a lubricating ma ka ʻili. Eia kekahi, hoʻohana nui ʻia ka glycerin i nā huahana toothpaste powder a me nā ʻaila hydrophilic, a he mea nui hoʻi ia o nā huahana hydrogel.
ʻO ka propylene glycol he wai waihoʻoluʻu ʻole, ʻikea, ʻili liʻiliʻi, wai hygroscopic. Hiki ke komo i loko o ka wai, acetone, ethyl acetate a me chloroform, a hoʻoheheʻe ʻia i ka waiʻona a me ka etera. Hoʻohana nui ʻia ka propylene glycol i nā mea hoʻonaninani. Hiki ke hoʻohana ʻia e like me ka mea hoʻomaʻemaʻe a me ka moisturizer no nā huahana emulsified a me nā huahana wai. Hiki ke hoʻohana ʻia e like me ka mea palupalu a me ka moisturizer no ka toothpaste ke hoʻohui ʻia me ka glycerol a me ka sorbitol. Hiki ke hoʻohana ʻia ma ke ʻano he mea hoʻoponopono moisture i nā huahana kala lauoho.
ʻO ka 1,3-Butanediol he wai liʻiliʻi ʻole a ʻala ʻole me ka paʻa ʻana o ka wai, hiki iā ia ke komo i ka wai e like me 12.5% ​​(RH50%) a i ʻole 38.5% (RH80%) o kona nui ponoʻī., ʻoi aku ka hoʻonāukiuki ma mua o glycerin a propylene glycol. Hiki ke hoʻohana nui ʻia e like me ka moisturizer i loko o nā lotions, creams, lotions a me nā niho niho. Eia kekahi, he hopena antibacterial ka 1,3-butanediol. ʻO Sorbitol kahi pauka keʻokeʻo keʻokeʻo i hana ʻia mai ka glucose ma ke ʻano he mea maka. He ʻono iki kona ʻono. Hiki ke hoʻoheheʻe ʻia ka Sorbitol i ka wai, hiki ke hoʻoheheʻe ʻia i ka ethanol, acetic acid, phenol a me acetamide, akā hiki ʻole ke hoʻoheheʻe ʻia i loko o nā mea hoʻoheheʻe organik ʻē aʻe. Loaʻa i ka Sorbitol ka hygroscopicity maikaʻi, palekana, a me ke kūpaʻa kemika maikaʻi. Ua hoʻohana nui ʻia ia ma ke kahua o nā kemika o kēlā me kēia lā. Hiki ke hoʻohana ʻia ma ke ʻano he mea maka no nā surfactants non-ionic a hiki ke hoʻohana ʻia e like me ka cream i loko o ka toothpaste a me nā mea hoʻonaninani.
ʻO ka polyethylene glycol he polymer hiki ke hoʻoheheʻe ʻia i ka wai i hoʻomākaukau ʻia e ka hoʻohui mālie o ka ethylene oxide a me ka wai a i ʻole ethylene glycol. Hiki ke hoʻoheheʻe ʻia i loko o ka polar organic solvents ikaika loa a loaʻa iā ia ke ʻano o ka haʻahaʻa haʻahaʻa a me ke kaumaha molekala. Hiki ke hoʻohana ʻia ke ʻano huahana ma ke ʻano he colloidal hoʻoheheʻe wai i loko o nā mea hoʻonaninani like ʻole. Hoʻohana nui ʻia ka polyethylene glycol i nā mea hoʻonaninani a me nā ʻoihana lāʻau lapaʻau ma muli o kāna mau waiwai maikaʻi loa e like me ka solubility wai, physiological inertness, palupalu, lubricity, moisturization ʻili, a me ka palupalu. ʻO ka polyethylene glycol haʻahaʻa haʻahaʻa haʻahaʻa hiki ke hoʻopaʻa a mālama i ka wai mai ka lewa, a ua plasticized a hiki ke hoʻohana ʻia e like me ka humectant; i ka piʻi ʻana o ke kaumaha molekala pili, hāʻule nui kona hygroscopicity. Hiki ke hoʻohana nui ʻia ka polyethylene glycol molecular kiʻekiʻe i kēlā me kēia lā, lāʻau lapaʻau, textile, papermaking a me nā ʻoihana ʻē aʻe ma ke ʻano he lubricant a palupalu paha.

(2) Lactic acid a me ka sodium lactate
ʻO ka ʻakika lactic kahi ʻakika organik e ola ākea ma ke ʻano. ʻO ia ka huahana hope loa i ka metabolism o nā mea anaerobic. He palekana a ʻaʻole ʻona. ʻO ka ʻakika lactic nō hoʻi ka wai hoʻoheheʻe wai nui i loko o ka moisturizing factor (NMF) o ka epidermis kanaka, a ʻo kona ʻike ma kahi o 12%. Hoʻopili ka ʻakika lactic a me ka lactate i ke ʻano o ka ʻiʻo o nā mea i loaʻa i ka protein, a loaʻa nā hopena plasticizing a me ka palupalu i nā protein. No laila, hiki i ka lactic acid a me ka sodium lactate ke hana i ka ʻili palupalu, pehu a hoʻonui i ka elasticity. He acidifier maikaʻi ia i nā mea hoʻonaninani mālama ʻili. He pilina maikaʻi ka hui carboxyl o ka molekole lactic acid no ka lauoho a me ka ʻili. ʻO ka Sodium lactate kahi mea hoʻomaʻamaʻa maikaʻi loa, a ʻoi aku ka ikaika o kona moisturizing ma mua o nā moisturizer kuʻuna e like me ka glycerin. Hoʻokumu ka lactic acid a me ka sodium lactate i kahi hopena paʻa e hiki ke hoʻoponopono i ka pH o ka ʻili. I nā mea hoʻonaninani, hoʻohana nui ʻia ka lactic acid a me ka sodium lactate e like me ka conditioners a me ka ʻili a i ʻole ka lauoho palupalu, acidifiers e hoʻoponopono i ka pH, creams a me nā lotions no ka mālama ʻili, shampoos a me nā conditioners no ka mālama lauoho a me nā huahana mālama lauoho ʻē aʻe. Hiki ke hoʻohana ʻia i nā huahana kahiki a me nā mea holoi.

(3) Sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate
ʻO ka sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate (PCA-Na no ka pōkole) he huahana decomposition o nā fibroin aggregates i loko o ka epidermal granular layer. ʻO ka maʻiʻo o ka mea moisturizing maoli o ka ʻili ma kahi o 12%. ʻO kāna hana physiological ʻo ia ka hoʻomaʻamaʻa ʻana i ka stratum corneum o ka ʻili. ʻO ka hoʻemi ʻana o ka sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate i loko o ka stratum corneum hiki ke hana i ka ʻili a maloʻo. ʻO ka sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate ka mea kala ʻole, ʻaʻala ʻole, a ʻoi aku ka nui o kona hygroscopicity ma mua o ka glycerin, propylene glycol, a me ka sorbitol. Ke 65% ka haʻahaʻa pili, hiki ke kiʻekiʻe ka hygroscopicity e like me 56% ma hope o 20 mau lā, a hiki i ka hygroscopicity ke hiki i 60% ma hope o 30 mau lā; a ma lalo o nā kūlana like, ʻo ka hygroscopicity o glycerin, propylene glycol, a me sorbitol he 40% ma hope o 30 mau lā. , 30%, 10%. Hoʻohana nui ʻia ʻo Sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate ma ke ʻano he humectant a me ka conditioner, hoʻohana ʻia i loko o nā lotions, nā lotions shrink, creams, lotions, a hoʻohana pū ʻia i ka toothpaste a me nā shampoos.

(4) Hyaluronic acid
A ʻo ka hyaluronic acid kahi paʻa amorphous keʻokeʻo i unuhi ʻia mai nā ʻiʻo holoholona. He ʻāpana disaccharide hana hou ia o (1→3)-2-acetylamino-2deoxy-D(1→4)-OB3-D glucuronic acid ʻO ka polymer i haku ʻia he ʻano molekula pili o 200,000 a 1 miliona. ʻO ka Hyaluronic acid kahi mea hoʻomaʻemaʻe biochemical kūlohelohe me nā waiwai moisturizing ikaika, palekana a ʻaʻohe mea ʻawaʻawa, me ka ʻole o ka huhū i ka ʻili kanaka. Hiki ke hoʻoheheʻe ʻia ka hyaluronic acid i ka wai akā ʻaʻole hiki ke hoʻoheheʻe ʻia i nā mea hoʻoheheʻe organik. Ma muli o ke kikoo ʻana a me ka pehu ʻana o ka ʻōnaehana molecular i loko o kāna ʻōnaehana hoʻonā wai, loaʻa nō ka viscosity kiʻekiʻe ma nā haʻahaʻa haʻahaʻa, a hiki ke hoʻopaʻa i ka nui o ka wai, no laila he mau waiwai moisturizing maikaʻi loa, viscoelasticity kiʻekiʻe a me ka permeability kiʻekiʻe.
ʻO ka Hyaluronic acid i kēia manawa kahi ʻano moisturizer me ka hana maikaʻi loa i nā mea hoʻonaninani. I loko o nā mea hoʻonaninani, hiki iā ia ke hāʻawi i ka hopena moisturizing i ka ʻili, e hoʻomaʻamaʻa i ka ʻili a maʻalahi, a hoʻopaneʻe i ka ʻelemakule o ka ʻili. Nui nā huahana hydrogel o ka hui i loko o ka hyaluronic acid a i hoʻohana pū ʻia me ia, a ua loaʻa ka pane maikaʻi ma hope o ka hoʻolauna ʻia ʻana i ka mākeke.

(5) Hydrolyzed collagen
Ua kapa ʻia ʻo Collagen i ka protein glial. He protein fibrous keʻokeʻo i hoʻokumu i ka ʻili holoholona, ​​cartilage, tendons, iwi, nā kīʻaha koko, cornea a me nā ʻiʻo pili ʻē aʻe. ʻOi aku ka nui ma mua o 30% o ka nui o ka protein o nā holoholona. Aia i loko o ka mea maloʻo o ka ʻili a me ka ʻiʻo dermal. Loaʻa ka Collagen ma kahi o 90%.
ʻO Collagen ka ʻāpana protein kumu i hoʻokumu ʻia i ka ʻili holoholona a me ka ʻiʻo. He pilina maikaʻi me ka ʻili a me ka lauoho. He maikaʻi ka ʻili a me ka lauoho no ia mea, e ʻae iā ia e komo i loko o ka lauoho, a me nā mea ʻē aʻe, e hōʻike ana i ka Affinity maikaʻi a me ka pono. A ma hope o ka hydrolysis, aia ka polypeptide chain of collagen i nā pūʻulu hydrophilic e like me amino, carboxyl a me hydroxyl, hiki ke hōʻike i ka paʻa ʻana o ka wai maikaʻi i ka ʻili. ʻO ka hydrolyzed collagen ka hopena o ka hōʻemi ʻana i nā kiko ʻili a me ka hoʻopau ʻana i nā wrinkles i hoʻoiho ʻia e nā kukuna ultraviolet. No laila, ʻike ʻia ka hana o ka hydrolyzed collagen i ka moisturizing, affinity, freckle whitening, anti-aging a pēlā aku. I loko o nā ʻiʻo holoholona, ​​ʻo ka collagen kahi mea hiki ʻole ke hoʻoheheʻe ʻia i ka wai, akā he ikaika kona hiki ke hoʻopaʻa i ka wai. Hiki ke lawe ʻia ka hydrolysis o ka collagen ma o ka hana o ka waikawa, alkali a i ʻole ka enzyme, a hiki ke loaʻa ka collagen hydrolyzed soluble, i hoʻohana nui ʻia i nā mea hoʻonaninani a me nā huahana nani.

ʻO nā ʻano humectants ʻē aʻe he chitin a me nā mea i loaʻa mai, nā humectants glucose ester, a me nā humectants mea kanu e like me ka aloe a me nā algae.